Heat Pump Not Heating? A Sacramento Repair Guide

The most common causes are a stuck reversing valve, a failed defrost control leaving the unit in the wrong cycle, low refrigerant charge, or a thermostat wired or configured for the wrong equipment type. A heat pump also runs cooler supply air than a furnace by design — around body temperature rather than hot — so check the temperature at a vent before assuming failure.

A light frost that clears during a defrost cycle is normal in a Sacramento winter. A thick jacket of ice that never clears is not. It points to a defrost board or sensor failure, a stuck outdoor fan, restricted airflow, or low charge. Do not chip the ice off — you will puncture the coil.

Constant running means the system cannot reach the setpoint: low charge, a dirty coil, a duct leak, or equipment undersized for the load. Short cycling — on and off every few minutes — usually points to an electrical control, a failing capacitor, a restricted filter, or a thermostat placed where it reads the wrong air.

• Mode and thermostat configuration verified first
• Refrigerant charge checked by superheat and subcooling in the operating mode
• Reversing valve and solenoid tested
• Defrost board and sensors put through a cycle
• Capacitor, contactor and amp draws measured
• Auxiliary and emergency heat operation confirmed
• Coils and airflow inspected, filter and static pressure checked
• Written estimate before any repair work begins

Age, the cost of the specific repair relative to the equipment's remaining life, and whether the system uses a phased-out refrigerant are the honest inputs. A capacitor on a mid-life unit is an easy call. A compressor or a major refrigerant leak on an old system is where replacement deserves a real look — and we will say so plainly rather than push it. See our heat pump repair page for how we handle that conversation.